Port to Port wine

Quinta de Ventozelo, Ervedosa do Douro.

Autumn

Calm returned to the vineyards, the many Autumn colours and the start of a new cycle. Rain also reappeared in force, heavy and intense rain throughout the region from mid-October onwards, grey rainy days, that lasted until the middle of November.

From mid-November onwards, the olive harvest began (from the 14th in the olive groves of Wine & Soul and Quinta do Vale Meão, in the Cima Corgo and Douro Superior sub-regions respectively) which, along with viticulture, is another important crop in the Douro region and an important source of income for many producers, now in a brief good dry weather and sunny days.

Temperatures began to drop close to average across the Demarcated Region, from 19th November onwards, and the following days, were sunny and cold, a mass of polar air caused the minimum temperatures in the northern interior and centre of the country to drop by between 5ºC to 6 ºC. Then at the end of the month the rain returned.

The winter rest approaches as the cold weather sets in and signals the change of seasons, the vines enter the period of winter dormancy, say goodbye to their leaves for good and enter a period of rest. During these days, pruning work is starting in some vineyards, a crucial operation, especially when it comes to old vines, as it has a direct influence on its growth, health and longevity and on the quality of the next harvest's production On the Ramos Pinto estates, the pruning season began on 28th November.

The end of autumn, the beginning of winter and December brought cold days, temperatures drop below the average records for the whole region (between 2ºC to 3°C) and morning frosts cover the land and vineyards.

(As a curiosity: in order to prevent the damage caused by increasingly frequent hailstorms, the discussion of the 2024 state budget approved the installation of anti-hail cannons to protect agricultural crops in the north of the country - anti-hail systems designed to prevent and protect crops, including vines, in the regions most vulnerable to this weather phenomenon - it seems that previous experiments with these devices have had positive results).

Winter

In the last days of December and the first days of the new year, the rain returned and the temperatures were above average. The vines are in the midst of dormancy, a phase of vegetative rest - a well-deserved rest that contributes to their strengthening and the accumulation of energy for next spring's rebirth (the ideal conditions for the plant to carry out a good hibernation would be a harsh winter, with temperatures well below 10ºC and an internal soil temperature of less than 5ºC).

When nature rests, the silence of the Douro landscapes in winter is interrupted by the work in the vineyards. It's time to take care of the next harvest, starting again with the winter pruning works that intensifies at this time of year, an ancient and essential practice that is a fundamental and specialised activity in viticulture, vital for guaranteeing the best vineyard conditions for the next flowering that will take place in the following months. It is an intervention in the vines that consists of cutting the stems that have developed during the wine year that has just ended, in the non-productive woody part, defining and leaving the points (buds) at the base that will in turn give rise to new shoots and new branches. The aim is to promote vegetative balance and regularise the vine's productive potential by limiting the number bunches to be developed, which will allow the plant to concentrate its resources more efficiently, contributing to its vitality, production balance and the quality and longevity of the vine. To compensate for the possible absence of average cold temperatures during the dormant period, it is possible to use later pruning in order to delay budbreak and prevent the effects of spring frosts, which can cause considerable damage when they occur at the beginning of the production cycle.

Cold winter days followed, from the second week of January onwards, a polar air mass hit Portugal, maximum and minimum temperatures dropped, and the regions where temperatures dropped the most were in the north and centre of the country. In the Douro, minimum temperatures reached negative levels, as in the Vilariça valley (from 6th to 8th January, on 8th January, the maximum temperature was 4,5ºC and the minimum -0,4ºC), with average temperatures 4 to 5ºC lower than the average records. The landscape changes, the freezing cold and frost appear in the vineyards - the frost acting as a natural pesticide, helping the vines and the soil to fight off pests and diseases. The humidity at this stage encourages the decomposition of biomass into organic matter, which is important for the region's soil with a low organic content, for biodiversity and for the future health of the soil. The fogs that often occur at this time of year are also important, playing their part in moisturising the woody parts of the vines as well as the soil.

The rain returned in mid-January, sometimes heavy and persistent across the north of the country (the effects of the ‘Irene’ depression). At the end of January, dry weather and mild temperatures (between 3 and 5 ºC above average), before returning to normal in February. As for the weather situation, IPMA (The Portuguese Institute for Sea and Atmosphere) data from some weather stations in the north and centre of the country show the most significant heatwave recorded in the month of January since 1941 (in general temperature was 5ºC above average for 6 days in a row).

At the beginning of February, work continues on the vineyards, as well as pruning and replanting vines (the “retancha”), whenever necessary due to the failure of very old vines or the lack of fruit set in younger ones. The soil is prepared to receive the necessary nutrients.

At the end of the first fortnight of February (8 to 15), the rain returned to the whole region and it snowed in the Serra do Marão (10). By mid-February, the vineyards are green and the almond trees are in bloom, a winter bloom that precedes the appearance of the leaves. At this time of year, the white and pink flowers of the almond trees cover the Alto Douro landscape, especially in Vila Nova de Foz Côa (Upper Douro), the capital of the almond blossom. These flowers signal the coming spring. At the end of February and beginning of March, the rain returns to the Douro region.

After pruning and while the vines are still growing, it's time to work the land, ploughing, tilling and aerating the soil, as well as controlling weeds, especially in old vineyards, where mechanisation is not possible and an old traditional practice, animal traction, is used for this work. At the end of February and beginning of March, the “empa” is carried out in the vineyards and is usually done at the same time as pruning. Its purpose is to prepare the vines for fruiting. It's a process that bends, directs and ties the rods to the supports to ensure an even distribution of sap throughout the plant and balanced development.

The weather is mild and humid. From now on, with each passing day, the first signs of the start of the new phase of development are awaited and very early signs of rebirth begin to appear at the end of February (on 28th February, at Quinta do Orgal, the Quinta do Vallado property in the Upper Douro, where the vines are beginning to bud).

Spring is well underway, temperatures are rising and so are the daily hours of sunlight, the soil is warming up and the vines are starting to wake up. The vine roots begin to absorb nutrients and the sap begins to circulate, some of which is expelled by the pruning cuts - the ‘cry of the vine’ which symbolises the start of a new growth cycle - these are tear-like drops of sap visible on the winter pruning cuts before the new branches are born. A phenomenon that signals the end of the dormant period and is the first sign of the resumption of the vine's vegetative activity. We can already see a few small shoots - the vine's budding period starts at the beginning of March at Quinta ro Vallado (1st March) and at Quinta do Zimbro the Touriga Francesa begins to emerge (4th March).

The buds of the nodes left by the pruning begin to increase in volume and open up and look like they are covered in cotton wool, they begin to open and a green tip will appear, then small green leaves will be defined and visible, which will help the vine with the vital functions of transpiration, respiration and photosynthesis - this is the beginning of the budding phase of the vines, which usually occurs in March.

Between 6th and 9th March, it snowed in the Serra do Marão and temperatures dropped in the higher reaches of the region. Rained throughout the region.

The colours of spring are back and mark a time of renewal and the start of a new cycle that will culminate in the grape harvest. From mid-March onwards, with dry weather, temperatures rose, with high maximum temperatures (27ºC on 21st March) and average values that were also high, then droped abruptly from one day to the next, in some cases the maximum temperatures halved (in Adorigo there was a maximum temperature of 23,8ºC on 24th March and on the 26th the maximum value was 10,9ºC), by the end of the month and the beginning of April the rain was back all over the region (this time the comsequences of the depression ‘Nelson’, bad weather, rain, cold and strong wind).

The period that began at the end of autumn and winter recorded higher than average rainfall, particularly in the Baixo and Cima Corgo Douro sub-regions (in the Upper Douro these figures were lower than average), and in the months of November and January. It was also a winter with above-average temperatures of between 1,4ºC and 2,5ºC.

River Torto valley.

Spring

Spring has arrived with longer days, the orange and cherry trees are in bloom, and day after day the vines' small bright green leaves stand out in the landscape, a crescendo of life and colour. Bud break began three weeks ago and the vines are growing at a good pace.

At the beginning of April, winegrowers usually start treatments to prevent and fight diseases that could affect the vines. These are fundamental procedures to guarantee the health of the plants and to get the full potential out of them.

From 11th to 16th April, experienced a heatwave, maximum temperatures rose (in Cambres there was 31,8ºC on 14th April and 31,7ºC in Pinhão on 13th April). Spring definitely set in these sunny days that felt like summer. In general, maximum temperatures were above 30ºC and average temperatures well above the average records (by around 5ºC).

There were cases of early budbreak, such as at Quinta de Ventozelo, in the heart of the Cima-Corgo sub-region, on 18th April, when the vines were in the phenological stage of separate bunches. Each grape variety and vineyard plot evolves at different rates and vegetative growth is visible, with warmer and sunnier days, the landscape begins to cover itself in green before entering flowering. The flowering phase of the vines begins, marked by the formation of the grape bunches, which also marks an assessment of the potential of the next harvest. At this stage, each cluster consists of many individual flowers, each of which has the capacity to develop into a berry that then forms the bunches, if successfully pollinated. At the end of April, the visible bunches phase, which signals the start of the grape's development and the promise of future fruit. It's a relatively short period.

(Some records of vineyards entering the flowering phase: 12th May, at Ramos Pinto – 14th May, Wine & Soul – 16th May, Quinta da Rede in Baixo Corgo sub-region – 18th May, Quinta dos Frades – 15th May is the reference date for full flowering.).

At the end of April and during the first few weeks of spring, work in the vineyard is continuing with the “despampa” or the stripping of the vines, which aims to control production and balance the vine's shoot load. It avoids wasting the plant's energy reserves by removing shoots, new branches and leaves that are unnecessary because they compete for the energy of the shoots that were selected at the time of pruning. This operation also favours aeration inside the vine, helping to reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. This agricultural practice has a direct influence on the health of the grapes, their biochemical development and of course also in the quality of the harvest.

Rain reappeared at the end of April and beginning of May (between 30th April and 5th May), and lower than average temperatures were registered during this period. Temperatures remain mild for the season until the end of May. Up until this point, everything is going very well in the vineyards.

At the end of May and beginning of June there was hail and heavy rain in some of the region's municipalities, weather conditions with high levels of humidity that boosted the incidence of mildew on the foliage and bunches of the vines, which meant that several preventative treatments had to be carried out to control it as well as the weeds, which proved to be a laborious activity. In June and July there was also some pressure from powdery mildew, which continued until the bunches closed and the colouring began, however without any major consequences for production. At the beginning of June, dry weather and rising temperatures, with a recorded period of maximum values above 30ºC (34,7ºC in Pinhão and the Vilariça valley on 30th May), then back to average values and rain between 17th and 19th June.

In general, throughout the region, in mid-June, the first bunches of grapes take shape in good soil and climate conditions that promoted a good development of the vines, promising a good harvest in quality and quantity. In July, the leaves of the vines are typically green and actively photosynthesising to produce sugars, providing the energy and nutrients needed for the growth and development of the new bunches of grapes.

During Spring, which was warm, temperatures were above average, rainfall figures were also higher than average in the three Douro sub-regions, especially in March, which was well above average.

Quinta Senhora do Rosário, Quevedo Wines, São João da Pesqueira.

Summer

A dry start to the summer with temperatures in line with average records. At the end of June, (28th June), there was an interval of heavy rain and thunderstorms throughout the region, a “deluge” occurred in Sabrosa. At the beginning of July, the dry weather returned and temperatures rose above average, with maximum values above 30ºC (on 4th July: Pinhão, 39,2ºC and Vilariça 39ºC).

At the moment, the grape bunches are compact, the grapes have not yet started to ripen, they are small, green and acidic, with a low sugar content. The vines direct nutrients and water to the bunches. From the beginning of July, the veraison arrives, a little later than the previous year, the grape berries start to transform and take on various reddish tones that gradually intensify in the case of red grape varieties and the skin becomes more translucent in the case of the white grape varieties, which marks the beginning of the ripening phase (records: on 3rd July, at Quinta Senhora do Rosário, Quevedo, on 6th July, in the Upper Douro - on 8th July, at Quinta do Noval, in Vale de Mendiz - on 10th July, at Quinta da Pedra Alta, in Favaios). At the same time, the berries soften and increase in size, begin to accumulate sugars and gradually reduce in acidity. It is during this period that the flavours and aromas develop.

The curious thing about this late spring and early summer is that the temperatures, in general, have been dry and not too hot, and there has been a pronounced temperature range, that remained and lastedd and which has led to cooler nights (the part of the ripening that would take place at night is not taking place as usual), which has allowed the vines to develop normally. From 22nd July onwards, there was a period of very high temperatures, with maximums close to 40ºC, which in addition to stimulating ripening, caused some bunches to scald.

By now, in the Torto river valley, the bunches are coloured and in full ripeness.

If there are no climatic upsets and this weather pattern continues, at this stage a year of higher production, excellent quality and very balanced is expected, which could cause problems for many of the regions’ winegrowers and this was a growing concern, since there are still many stocks of wine in the region from the previous year, which could result in difficulties in selling the grapes and the wine. Some operators will not buy grapes or will buy them in smaller quantities and at lower prices.

The Harvest

In mid-August we were in the midst of monitoring the ripeness of the grapes up until harvest time, analysing the most important compounds in the grape berries, such as sugars, acids and the evolution of phenolic compounds and aromatic substances - there is a concentration or accumulation of sugars and a decrease in the acid content - and the point at which these components reach the optimum concentrations depending on the wine you want to make. Meticulous work is carried out, with regular measurements to monitor and assess the ripeness of the grapes, which then determine the decision on harvest dates and this is always the biggest challenge, deciding on the balance point and the ideal time to harvest, especially in vineyards with several different varieties, since each variety has its own ripeness point.

On 2nd August, the harvest began at Niepoort with the reception of the early Pinot Noir grapes at the winery.

The hustle and bustle returns to the region, with news of the start of the harvest in some houses, and the always tough and demanding harvest begins.

Quinta do Rosário winery, Quevedo Wines.

Some records:

At the Ramos Pinto quintas, on 8th August, the Viosinho white grape variety was the first to arrive at the winery. This was followed on the 14th by the start of the red grape harvest at Quinta da Ervamoira, with the Tinta Amarela red grape harvest.

At Quinta do Cidrô (Real Companhia Velha) in São João da Pesqueira, 12nd August was the first day of the harvest, with Chardonnay grapes for sparkling wine and Sauvignon Blanc plots. At Quinta das Carvalhas, on the 16th, the Bastardo grape harvest took place.

At Quinta do Vallado, the white Moscatel Galego grapes, which are usually the first to be harvested, began to be picked on August 13.

Geographic Wines started harvesting its white wines in Murça on the 16th and the Touriga Nacional harvest began on the 21st August.

On 20th August, the first white grapes arrived at Quinta do Crasto and Quinta do Monte Travesso (in Tabuaço, Cima Corgo sub-region) with the Gouveio white grape variety. On the same day, the harvest began at Quinta de Ventozelo with the white grape varieties Malvasia and Viosinho. The following day the harvest began at Quinta da Pedra Alta (in Soutelinho, Favaios), Quinta Seara D'Ordens and Quinta da Romaneira. On 22nd August: Wine & Soul, Quevedo, and the Viosinho plots at Quinta das Netas in the Pinhão valley were harvested (Symington Family Estates), at Quinta do Vale Meão, the white grapes from the ‘Janeanes’ vineyard (in Pocinho, Douro Superior), on the 23rd, the Verdelho grapes at Quinta dos Murças - on 28th August, the white grape harvest at Quinta da Fonte (Vieira de Sousa), and on the 30th August the Bastardo grape harvest kicked off at Quinta do Convento de São Pedro das Águias (Kranemann Wine Estates).

On the first day of September, the harvest began at Churchill's and Van Zellers & Co., and at Quinta do Noval, the Viosinho grape variety was harvested from the Urtigueiras vineyard plot. On 3rd September, the Gouveio grape variety was harvested at Quinta do Cume and the white grape varieties at Quinta de Santa Eufémia. Harvesting began at the Fonseca Guimaraens vineyards on 6th September.

In the first week of September, the harvest takes place in ideal weather conditions, with warm, sunny days and cooler nights, keeping pace with the vineyards and allowing the different grape varieties to be harvested sequentially. Between 16th and 19th September, the harvest took place with the sky covered in smoke from the dramatic fires that occurred in the west of the country. Since mid-September, temperatures have been in line with average values and slightly above, but the wide temperature range remains, with hot days and cooler nights (differences between 15ºC and 20ºC). After about two thirds of the harvest, it rained on 20th September and then rain returned with intensity to the whole region from the 24th to the 26th, here with some producers already in the final stages of the harvest and others still in the middle of it.

This year the harvest started a little later - considering the most recent harvests in the last ten years - and it also ended late, lasting through the months of September and October, like the harvests of old. The grapes for Port wine, normally are the last to be picked, this year took place against the backdrop of the different autumn colours, unlike in recent years, and ended in October, on the 1st at Quinta do Têdo - on the 3rd at Wine & Soul - at Quinta de la Rosa, Van Zellers & Co. , Quinta da Ervamoira and Quinta do Vale Meão on the 4th - Quinta do Vallado and Quinta Seara D' Ordens on the 5th - Quinta do Cume and Quinta da Pedra Alta on the 7th - at Quinta da Gricha the harvest came to an end on the 9th - at Quinta das Quartas (Poças Vinhos) the harvest ended on the 10th - at Rozès on the 12th - at Vieira de Sousa on the 16th.

The harvest is complete and the vineyards are now preparing for the next phase of the cycle. The vines are returning to a period of rest and the producers are now turning their attention to working in the wine cellar, fermenting and caring for the newly produced wines, which will be monitored over thge next few months. However, in general, at the moment all the indicators are very promising and expectations are high.

“You can fell the aroma of a great year in the cellar.”

João Luís Batista, Winemaker for Ramos Pinto's Douro Wines.

General comments

It was a wine year with all the characteristics of a great year, a year of great quality in the Douro region, was even mentioned as one of the best of this century. Great wines are expected, the outlook is very good and there is great optimism among the region's producers and it would be reasonable to assume a classic declaration of vintage Port for 2024, but we won't know for sure until the Spring of 2026, when the news of the firts declarations from the main Port wine houses start to appear.

It was a very balanced year and several factors were decisive: the rainy winter and spring were essential for creating sufficient soil water reserves to face the summer hottest and driest days. There was heat, but not too much, no heatwaves as in previous years, and favourable and stable weather conditions remained and lasted, with a temperature range that lasted throughout the grape ripening and harvesting phase, in which warmer days were matched by cooler nights. These conditions favoured gradual and balanced ripening and the vines were in excellent condition when it was time to harvest. Then, in addition to the quantity produced, there was above all quality, the grapes were very good and healthy, and of great quality for some varieties, such the red grape varieties as Touriga Nacional and the later Touriga Francesa.

And then the harvest went smoothly and there was talk of an ‘old-fashioned’ harvest, with a slightly later start than in recent years and which lasted until the first days of October. As the harvest progressed, optimism grew among Port and Douro wine producers. The mild temperatures and the ripening of the various grape varieties was more progressive and sequential, which allowed for better management of the ideal moments and of all the logistics of the harvest and winery.

“After tasting the must as it came out of lagar three at Quinta da Gricha, just before we added the grape brandy, I have to say that I'm very enthusiastic about the quality and potential of the grapes this year!” Johnny Graham, Churchill’s

But there was also a dark side too, paradoxically, and in contrast to the quality of the year, the higher production for the second consecutive year has brought another kind of difficulty for many Douro winegrowers, as they were unable to sell some or all of their production (some have left the grapes on the vines for lack of buyers), since there is a lot of wine stockpiled in the cellars.

“The 2024 vintage has the elegance and purity of the classic years (...) The musts have depth, elasticity and length. Great DOC Douro and Port wines are expected from 2024.” Jorge Alves, Enólogo Quinta do Têdo.

quinta-feira, 28 de novembro de 2024

Douro wine region, the 2024 general harvest report